OOIR: Observatory of International Research

Papers

(The TQCC of Textile-Cloth and Culture is 0. The table below lists those papers that are above that threshold based on CrossRef citation counts [max. 500 papers]. The publications cover those that have been published in the past four years, i.e., from 2019-08-01 to 2023-08-01.)

Article	Citations
Textile Material Metaphors to Describe Feminist Textile Activisms: From Threading Yarn, to Knitting, to Weaving Politics	6
The State of Kete Development in the Volta Region	5
“Making It For Our Country”: An Ethnography of Mud-Dyeing on Amami Ōshima Island	4
Masked Narratives: Manifestations of a Disaster	3
Examining the White Karelian Textile Tradition of the Late Nineteenth Century—Focus on Plant Fibers	3
Principles and Pilfering: Nottingham Lace Design Pedagogy	2
A Revival for Thailand’s Textile Traditions: New Value for Local Materials (Eri Silk) through Art Practice	2
Working, Singing, and Telling in the 19th-Century Flemish Pillow-Lace Industry	2
The Textilesphere: The Threshold of Everyday Contacts	2
Reflections onBummock: The Lace ArchiveSymposium	2
Unraveling Psychologically: Knitting in Performance Costume and the Themes of You Got Older (2015)	2
Lux Perpetua: Future Pioneers Utilizing Historical Precedent as Design Innovation Within Fashion	2
Textile and Place	2
Introduction: Missing Persons and Hidden Heritages in European Lace Making	2
The Domestic Veil: The Net Curtain in the Uncanny Home	2
A Matter of Life and Death	2
The Hidden Potential of Textiles: How Do They Heal and Reveal Traumas?	2
Unravelling the Battle of Britain Lace Panel	2
Sustainable Craft Design Systems for Handloom Weavers	2
A Comparative Study on the Techniques, Tools and Materials for Indigenous Weaving in Ghana	2
Exploring Cultural Value and its Sustainability of Balinese Handwoven Textiles	1
Traditional Woolen Namda (Felted Fabrics) from Tonk, Rajasthan: A Livelihood Initiative for Rural Women	1
A Costume Analysis of the Film “Lost in Translation” (Coppola, 2003)	1
Knotty Problems: The Complexity of the Knot in Sewing	1
Terroir in a Dress. Understanding Antwerp-Style Fashion	1

A Hybrid Alternative for Mobile Generations: Fashion Interior as a Portable Architecture for Indonesian Millennials	1
Introduction: Cloth and Textile in Translation	1
CONTEXTILE2020, PLACES OF MEMORY: Inter-Discourses of a Textile Territory.	1
Evolving a Tapestry Practice at Rorke’s Drift: Women’s Alliances, Agencies and Visual Syntaxes in the Loom	1
Traditional Fine Homespun Hemp Linen Fabrics: About Qualities and Usages in Ritual and Secular Contexts	1
A Brief Introduction to Body-Oriented Parametric Design for 3D-Printed Fashion and Textiles	1
Women and Children in the Machine-Made Lace Industry in Britain and France (1810–60)	1
“The Other Side of the Brocade”: Translating Fashion Blogs and Data Mining	1
Authenticity and Place-Based Knitwear: Fair Isle and Aran Knitting in Shetland and the West of Ireland	1
Embroidery as Activist Translation in Latin America	1
Knitting Two Together (K2tog), “If You Meet Another Knitter You Always Have a Friend”	1
Undocumented Textiles: Material Expressions of Indian Ocean Identities in Literature	1
Knitting Algorithmic Assemblages	1
When Life Hangs by a Thread: Representations of Covid-19 by the Mapula Embroidery Project	1
Weaving Beyond the Binary	1
Value and Cultural Voice in Australian Aboriginal Textiles	1
The Place of Shetland Knitting	1
Stranded Iconographies: The Journeys of Tapestries from Rorke’s Drift, 1965	0
Unspooling Die Gramgewinde: Writing with Gunta Stölzl on Grief-Threads and Grief-Portals	0
Controlled Rummage as Artistic Strategy: Exposing the Bummock of the Lace Archive	0
Traditional and Contemporary Facets of String Puppets of Rajasthan	0
Ottoman Dress and Design in the West: A Visual History of Cultural Exchange	0
Knitwork: Creativity and the Manufacture of British Designer Knitwear in the 1980s	0
Collected, Weaved and Trapped Colors in Chaco (Argentina)	0
Life is Short, Art is Long, Crisis is FleetingKairos or Weaving the Right Moment*	0
Dressing Up: “Reading” Costume in the Photograph Albums of Nineteenth-Century Bourgeois Jews	0
The Knitted Fabric of Finland: Contemporary Handcrafted Wooly Socks Depicting the Nation State	0
Stab It, Strangle It¹: Media Representations of Knitters, and Subversions of the Stereotype to Reflect Inclusion and Diversity	0
Embroidering the Traumatized “Cloth-Skin-Body”: Suffragette Embroidered Cloths Worked in Holloway Prison, 1911–1912	0
Ten Perspectives of the Gáppte: Materializing Different Ways of Being Sámi	0
The Unsettling Truths of Settling: Ghostscapes in Domestic Textiles	0
Communication and Challenges of Capacity Development: A Case Study of Bagru Hand Block Printing	0
Made in Italy: Translating Cultures from Gucci to Dapper Dan and Back	0
An Ethical Approach to Sericulture: Production of Peace Silk in Hatay/Turkey	0
Lesbian Knitting: From Self-Sufficiency to Self-Representation	0
The “Authenticity Discourse” in Contemporary Application of West African Textiles	0
Exhibition Review: Invasive Queer Kudzu, Aaron McIntosh, Richmond, VA: 1708 Gallery, March 29–May 4, 2019.	0
Thread - An exhibition of Contemporary Textile Practices	0
Invisible Labor: Notes on a Lesser-Known Community of Makers of Menswear in Jaipur	0
Textiles and the Acknowledgement of Unidentified Dead	0
In Memoriam: Curator, Educator, and Editorial Board Member, Linda Eaton	0
Shakespeare in Rajasthan: Character, Emotion, and Gesture in Clothing	0
Boundless Encounters—The Impression of the 2019 3rd Hangzhou Triennial of Fiber Art	0
From Underwear to Outerwear: The Influence of Machinery on Creativity and Garment Styling in the Scottish Knitwear Industry, 1920s–1970s	0
Anne Wilson, “If We Asked about the Sky” and Kustaa Saksi, “First Symptoms”	0
Fashion, Gender and Agency in Latin American and Spanish Literature	0
Jewish Women, English Dress: From Kindertransport to Women in Uniform in Wartime England	0
Identification of Blended Hemp Textiles from the Middle Ages to the 20^th Century	0
Exhibition Review	0
Consumption Pattern and the Factors of the Handloom Weavers in Charghat Upazila of Rajshahi District in Bangladesh	0

Textile Memories	0
Hidden Hands and Missing Persons	0
Dangerous Coats	0
A Designer’s Perspective on a Creative Era in Knitwear Design: British Fashion Knitwear 1970–1990	0
Life, after Life: Textile Crafts in India and Communities of Practice	0
Criminal Quilts, Gunnersbury Park Museum, London, 2–3 November 2019	0
I Craft Affect into Experimental Cloth Formations	0
Story of Pharad: In the Words of the Artisan	0
This Long Thread: Women of Color on Craft, Community, and Connection,	0
Knitting: The Destructive Yarn-Bomb	0
The Big Rainbow Knit: Revisiting Craftivist Practices through Place-Based Making	0
Life after Death: A Saree as Memoir	0
“An Index of Gentility”: Representations of Needlework in Dombey and Son	0
Ties That Bind or Exclude? Knitting and Craft Groups as Contested Spaces of Inclusion and Exclusion	0
Jewish Dress through Visual Sources: An Introduction	0
Annet Couwenberg: Sewing Circles,	0
Traditional Woven Bags from Hakkâri Province	0
STEAM at Work: “Translating” Science into Dress	0
A Knot Dress to Encapsulate Its Maker’s Wish	0
Shapes of Movement, in Weaving and in Architecture	0
Fashionable Bauhaus: Translating the Bauhaus Esthetics into Textile and Fashion Design	0
Endings and Beginnings: Reflections on Crafting and Mothering	0
Fashionable Traditions: Asian Handmade Textiles in Motion	0
The Reflection of Ancient Ages Ganos Mountain Byzantine Amphoras on Fabric and Clothing Design	0
Trauma Memory in Stitch, Sound and Word: From the Troubles and Conflict to Reconciliation and Peace	0
Translating Tigers: The Visual Rhetoric of Fashion Communication in Kenzo’s Logo	0
Lenore Tawney: Mirror of the Universe	0
The Language of Miao Embroidery: Exploring the Traditional “Embroidered Rear Skirt Panels” Worn by the Miao Women of the Huawu Village	0
Fiber: The Shared Code of Art and Design—On the 2021 Fiber Code Exhibition	0
Tate Britain Commission: Hew Locke's The Procession	0
Australian Aboriginal Textiles: Value Beyond Fashion	0
A Return Through the Origins of Modernity … Pishi-pishimanta, awaspa, ñawpa kawsayniyta, saphiykunata, tarishani …	0
Constructed Masculinities: Unpicking Working-Class Masculinities through Knitting	0
Rasam Pagdi: Performing Textile Masculinities	0
Senzeni Marasela’s Reworking of Women’s Histories in Beyond Booty: Covering Sarah Baartman and Other Tales	0
Received, in Shadows and Silence	0
“Y Sin Embargo Te Quiero” (And Yet, I Love You): An Ethnographic Study of Economic Policy and Colonial Hegemonies Encoded in the Recommodification of Used Garments	0
Rozanne Hawksley	0
CTRL/Shift exhibition, Midlands Arts Centre, Birmingham, 21st July – 9th September 2018	0
Call for Papers, Special Issue: Life, after Life: Textile Crafts in India and Communities of Practice	0
Introduction: Textiles and Trauma	0
Material Matters in Paintings at the End of an Era	0
Creating Paradise Through a Palimpsest of Textile Higher Education and Community-Based Research	0
History in Fashion, 1500 Years of Embroidery in Fashion, Leipzig: Grassi Museum	0
Weaving as a Livelihood Option: A Study of the Bhulia Weaver Community in Odisha, India	0
Woven under Glass: Francis Bacon’s Linen and the Queerness of His Materials	0
Reflecting a Diaspora: In-between Whitework and Indigo	0
The Processing of Used Clothing as a Survival Strategy: The Łódź Ghetto Textile Industry in Official Visual Documents of the Judenrat	0
From Embroidered Painting to Needle Words	0
Styling the “Ivy” Man: Jewish Men as Creators and Consumers of an American Style, 1940–1965	0
Lederhosen, Dirndl, and a Sense of Belonging: Jews and Trachten in Pre-1938 Austria	0
Wearing Trauma on Her Sleeve: A Jumlo as a Witness and Recorder of Colonial Boundaries	0
Judith Scott: Capturing the Texture of Sensation	0
Fabrications: Using Knitted Artworks to Challenge Developers’ Narratives of Regeneration and Recognise Manchester’s South Asian Working Class Textiles Businesses	0
Passion Flower and Wheel of Fortune: An Oya Motif as an Example of Textile Form and Color Design	0
Clothing, Emotion and Consumption in Colonial New South Wales	0
The Dementia Darnings	0
İmren Erşen Oya Müzesi	0
Knitting and Everyday Meaning-Making	0
Exhibition Review	0
Pattu Craft of Western Rajasthan: Design Interventions in View of Changing Socio-Cultural Environment	0
Creativity and Design in a Contemporary Knitwear Business: An Interview with Di Gilpin and Sheila Greenwell	0
Challenges and Scope of Development: A Case Study of Paithani Weavers of Maharashtra (India)	0
Modern Confections: Jews, New Women, and the Business of Fashion in Imperial Berlin	0
The Art of Mirror Embroidery on Women’s Wear and Home Furnishing Products, in Two Villages of Sanghar Sindh	0
Castaways: Art from the Material World	0
Jewish Beauty Pageants in Interwar Poland: Entertainment, Beauty Ideal, and National Emotions	0
Introduction: Creativity in Knitted Textiles in Historical Context	0
Razzle, Dazzle and the Black Fantastic	0
Chinese Folk Embroidery Bellyband: The Intersection of Loving Symbol, Emotional Release, and Spiritual Needs	0
Weaves and Voices: Tracing the Journey of the Indian Saree	0
Economic Effects of Covid-19 on the Indian Carpet Industry	0
Exhibition Review	0
Risky, Subversive, and Deviant? A Criminological Analysis of Guerrilla Knitting	0
Eva Obodo’s Recent Works: Tied, Twisted Textiles and Social Life in Nigeria	0
Textures of Understanding	0
Photographs of Jewish Clothing in Nazi Germany and the Shoah: Visual Records of Economic Assaults, Exploitation, and Plunder	0
A Dialogue about Social Weaving: The Weaving Kiosk and Weaving Lab	0
Phad: The Scoping Review of Ritualistic, Performative Audio-Visual Folk Tradition of Rajasthan	0
Exhibition Review	0

Natural Practices: The Creative Autonomy Encoded within First Nations Dye and Weaving Processes of the Chilkat Blanket	0
Dialog/Dialogue Street Stories: A Window to the Past; Footsteps in the Present	0
Exhibition Review	0
Alluring Monotony + Luminous Grids	0
Deco Dandy: Designing Masculinity in 1920s Paris	0
Exhibition Review	0
Aambkapad, Chira, Khun, and more – Intercultural Influences on Fabrics of the Peshwas of Pune, India	0
Fabric: The Map of Our Lives	0
Domestic Trauma: Textile Responses to Confinement, Coercion and Control	0
Letter to the Editor	0
Leather Craft of Chamba: Heritage of Royality	0
Stitching New Life into Old – A Commission of a Coat	0
Pliable Logic as a Practice-Led Research Methodology for Textile Practice	0
Empire of Style: Silk and Fashion in Tang China	0
Bisa Butler: Portraits	0
Queering the Subversive Stitch: Men & the Culture of Needlework	0
Neo-Victorianism, Feminism, and Lace: Amy Atkin’s Place at the Dinner Table	0
Illuminating the Self, Newcastle upon Tyne: Hatton Gallery, January 18–May 8 2020	0
Blue Skies Have Never Been So Blue	0
Stitching Alive by Marjorie Coleman	0
Glimpses of Comfort: Embroideries of Self in the Imagined Worlds of Kantha Textiles from Late-Colonial Bengal	0
The Erotic Cloth: Seduction and Fetishism in Textiles	0
Khadi Textiles, Women and Rural Development: An Analysis from Past to Present	0
From Shirts to Arpilleras – Derry’s Textile Heritage Continues	0
Red Cashmere Cardigan, J’adore	0
Patterns and Programs: Replication and Creativity in the Place-Based Knitting of Shetland and Ireland	0
Correction	0
The 4th Hangzhou Triennial of Fiber Art	0
Textile Weaving (Aṣọ-Òkè) at Ologbin-Adewole Northern Yorubaland, Nigeria	0
Embroidered Voices: Exposing Hidden Trauma Stories of Apartheid	0
Catherine Harper, “Áine” (2020), 150 × 200 cms, Stitched and Quilted “Intimate Textiles” Artwork	0
Textile Garden, July 15–October 30, 2022, Museum für Gestaltung, Ausstellungsstrasse, Zürich	0
Coping COVID-19: Karur in the Past, Through the Present and into the Future	0
Stitching a Divided City	0
Mark R. Smith: Phalanxes	0
Caring Through Cloth: Textiles and the Trauma of Stillbirth	0
Crafting Anatomies: Archives, Dialogues, Fabrications	0
Exhibition Review	0
Body, Dress, and Symbolic Capital: Multifaceted Presentation of PUGREE in Colonial Governance of British India	0
What is to Hand: The Fold as Landscape Within Textile Imagination	0
Anni Albers: Tate Modern, London, 11^th October 2018 – 27^th January 2019	0
Dinh Q Lê, Photographing the Thread of Memory	0
Thread Bearing Witness at the Somerset Rural Life Museum, Glastonbury	0
Will There Be Womanly Times? Reflections on the Work of Ellen Lesperance	0
Contemporary Indigenous Textiles from Australia’s Tropic Zone	0
Weaving Webs of Protection: Gringsing Textiles	0
The Story of the Karuna Textile Doll	0
Materializing Migration: Weaving the Mashrabiya in Nevin Aladağ’sScreens I–III(2016)	0
Paris Fashion and World War Two: Global Diffusion and Nazi Control	0
The New Normal: Textile Crafts in Kutch Amidst the COVID-19 Pandemic	0
Yarn over Police Brutality: Race and the Occupation of Rochester City Hall’s Steps during the Daniel Prude Protest	0
The Afterlife of Early Modern Images of Jews	0
Knitting Close to the Edge	0
Technical Thinking on Chinese Embroidered Paintings	0
Annet Couwenberg: Altering Patterns	0
Seams and Edges in a Garment: A Practice-Led Research	0
Janet Kennedy: A Life in Color	0
Magdalena Abakanowicz: Every Tangle of Thread and Rope, London, UK: Tate Modern, 17 November 2022 to 21 May 2023	0
Exhibition Review	0
Poetic Entanglement	0
Fashion, Society and the First World War: International Perspectives	0
A Woven Decree	0
On Not Looking Jewish: Visualizing Submerged Memories and Appearances	0
Beyond Weaving: Transdisciplinarity and the Bauhaus Weaving Workshop	0
Typology and Fashion Usage Trends of Ankara in the Twenty-First Century South-Western Nigeria	0
Clothing Death: Harry Clarke’s Designs for Edgar Allan Poe’s Dead Brides, from Word to Image	0
Material Memories in Storage: The Aftermath of Site-Specific, Collectively Made Textiles	0
Selected Indigenous Ethiopian Traditional Weaving Designs for Beauty and Diversity of Ethiopian People	0
Dad's Shirts	0
The Ladies Ulster in the 1870s and 1880s: From “Eccentric-Looking” to “Beau Ideal”	0
Textiles and Memories	0